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Portugal Wine ReviewsBy Harold J. Baer, JR
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BAIRRADA
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Aliança produces four different levels of wines from those with no oak to those which are matured in all new French oak. It also makes brandy that is aged in Kentucky Bourbon barrels. |
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The 2004 Aliança Brut, Bairrada, $20, is a blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Baga. It spent thirty-six months on the yeast and received no dosage. Aromas of brioche, lemon, grapefruit, and green apple repeat as flavors with good acidity and mousse. The medium-broad, medium-long finish shows a hint of sweet apple. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Very Tasty. |
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| The 2009 Galeria White, Bairrada, $9, is 90% Bical and 10% Chardonnay and spent two months in stainless steel. Bright aromas of grapefruit, floral, and grass continue as juicy flavors laced with great acidity and accented with just a hint of bitterness. The long finish is narrow at the front and broad at the back. A nice simple white to pair with food. |
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| The 2009 Galeria Rosé, Bairrada, $7, is a blend of Baga and Touriga Nacional. Strawberry, grapefruit, rhubarb, and tart cherry on the nose continue onto the palate with an initial hint of sweetness then lots of acidity before a finish on the back half of the palate. It doesn’t have any depth but is crisp and refreshing. Tasty. |
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| The 2007 Aliança Reserva, Red, Bairrada, $7, is 100% Baga. A sweet accented nose of blackberry, chocolate, prune, and sweet earth repeats except for the prune as flavors laced with dry tannin and tart acidity. The wine is dry and finishes medium-long and medium-broad. Quite different is the 2007 Aliança Reserva, Red, Dão, $12,which is a blend of Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional, and Jaen and was aged for six to nine months in older French oak. Aromas of spice, dark cherry, plum, cocoa, and blackberry introduce light to medium bodied flavors of the same accented with fine tannin and good acidity before a long, medium-broad, light bodied finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. (Jaen ripens in early September, Tinta Roriz in mid-September, and Touriga Nacional in late September which explains the different lengths the components of this blend spent in oak.) |
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| The 2007 Aliança Particular, Red, Dão, $13, is Tinta Roriz and Touriga Nacional. It spent nine months in oak and is softer than the previous wine and opens with spice, blackberry, blueberry, and light, smoky oak. Bright, juicy flavors of the same are laced with light, fine tannin and finish with persistent spice. |
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| The 2007 Vista TR, Reserva, Red, VR Beiras, $10, is Tinta Roriz made entirely in stainless steel. Black cherry, blackberry, and chocolate on the nose repeat as flavors with just a hint of sweetness and laced with brisk acidity and fine tannin before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. A great everyday red. BEST BUY. |
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| In contrast, the 2007 Vista TN, Reserva Red, VR Beiras, $12, is 100% Touriga Nacional that matured in oak for nine months. It has soft, smooth aromas of pepper, blackberry, cherry, currant, and a hint of herb. All repeat as flavors laced with light, dry tannin and nice acidity and finish medium-broad and medium-long. This is a fairly big and rich wine that will pair nicely with food. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Tasty. |
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| The 2007 Quinta Da Garrida, Red, Dão, $20, was aged in new and older oak for nine months. A blend of Tinta Roriz and Touriga Nacional, it has a big, ripe, rich bouquet of sweet accented dark fruit: mostly blackberry and black cherry. Flavors of the same finish medium-broad and medium-long with an added touch of pepper. |
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| The 2005 Quinta Das Baceladas, Red, Bairrada, $20, is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, and 2% Baga. Aged in new French and Russian oak for twelve months, it opens with smoky oak over blackberry, black cherry, hints of earth, blueberry, and currant. Sweet accented flavors of the same but with brighter cherry and very light tannin finish medium-broad and truncated. Well put together and easy to drink. |
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| The 2005 Quinta Da Garrida, Reserva, Red, Dão, $30, is 100% Touriga Nacional and was matured for fourteen months in new French oak. A big, smooth, ripe, forward bouquet of cherry, spice, plum, and violet continues onto the palate which adds good tannin and acidity before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated, it will benefit from another three to five years in the bottle to develop. Good. |
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| The 2004 Quinta Da Dona, Red, Bairrada, $70, is 100% Baga and was aged for twelve months in new French oak. A big, inviting, very ripe nose of blackberry, currant, blueberry, leather, and licorice repeats with the addition of spice and very fine tannin as big, intense flavors that finish with persistent spice. Well integrated, structured, and balanced. Excellent. BEST WINE. |
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| The 2009 Vinha do Putto, Bairrada DOC, $6, is mostly Verdelho with small amounts of Bical and Arinto, though the blend can change with the vintage and may include Chardonnay. Lemon, grapefruit, and floral aromas introduce bright, smooth, broad, and nicely rich flavors of the same with good acidity before the medium-broad, truncated finish adds spice. |
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| The 2009 Entre II Santos, White, Bairrada DOC, $9, is Sauvignon Blanc and Bical with a floral, apple, and sweet lemon nose. Juicy flavors of the same but with the lemon first and an added touch of grass finish long and medium-broad. (The two saints are Matthew and Lawrence.) |
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| The 2008 Arinto, Bairrada DOC, $16, was barrel fermented and aged with bâtonnage in older oak. A stinky, floral, oaky nose precedes lemon, grapefruit, and woody flavors with lots of lively acidity. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long. It is well put together and will complement food. Very Tasty. |
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| The 2007 Entre II Santos, Red, Bairrada DOC, $9, is a blend of Baga, Castelão Nacional, and Merlot. Aged for six months in older oak, it opens with very attractive sweet fruit aromas of cherry, raspberry, cranberry, and a hint of oak. Smooth, juicy flavors of the same fruit are fresh and add pepper at the front, very fine, light tannin, and moderate acidity before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated, it will be popular. Tasty. |
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| The 2008 Contra a Corrente, Bairrada DOC, $12, is a blend of Castelão Nacional, Cabernet Sauvignon, and a small amount of Tinto Cão. It spent twelve months in used vats and barrels and has aromas of earth, black cherry, blackberry, and leather before juicy flavors of the same laced with lovely acidity and very fine tannin. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long and will pair especially well with food. Very Tasty. | |
| The 2007 Os Corvos da Vinha da Costa, Bairrada DOC, $12, is Tinta Roriz, Merlot, and Syrah. Aged in used oak barrels for up to twelve months, it shows smoky oak, blackberry, blueberry, currant, and cinnamon on the nose. Everything except the oak repeats as soft flavors shot through with lots of tannin and soft acidity before a long, medium-broad finish with sharp cinnamon notes. Very international in style. |
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| The 2008 Rol de Coisas Antigas, Bairrada DOC, $16, is a blend of Baga, Castelão Nacional, Trincadeira da Bairrado, Souzão, Bastardo, Alfrocheiro, Tinta Pinheira, and, depending upon the year either Alicante Bouschet or Bical. Still very closed, it has big, forward, juicy flavors dominated by cherry, cranberry, raspberry, and pepper accented with bright acidity and a touch of tannin. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long and needs another year or two in the bottle to develop and open. The 2007 vintage of this wine is quite different with mineral, blackberry, earth, currant, and dried blueberry on the nose. The palate adds pepper at the front, nice acidity, and a hint of tannin before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated, it is sold out at the winery but you may still find it on the retail shelf or on the internet. Good. |
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| The 2007 Termeão, Bairrada DOC, $36, is 80% Touriga Nacional with the remaining 20% a combination of Castelão Nacional and Cabernet Sauvignon. Aromas of earth, smoke, blackberry, leather, and fennel continue as flavors with the additions of white pepper at the front plus fine, smooth tannin and nice acidity and carry through the broad, medium-long finish. Well integrated, balanced, and structured, it has good body and there is a lot happening. Excellent. (Beginning with the 2008 vintage the Cabernet will be replaced with Souzão.) |
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| The 2006 Calda Bordaleza, Bairrada DOC, $36, is 70% Merlot, 25% Petit Verdot, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged in a combination of new and older French oak for eighteen months, it has a bouquet of earth, smoke, currant, blackberry, cinnamon, and leather. All repeat as well integrated, almost light bodied flavors that finish medium-broad and truncated. |
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| CAVES PRIMAVERA | Caves Primavera wines are made entirely with purchased grapes which are purchased when they reach the specified sugar levels. Total production is three million cases per year. |
| CAVES SÃO JOÃO | Established in 1920 as Sociedade do Vinhos Irmãos Unidos, LDA, the winery produces sparkling, white, and red wines at various price levels and from both indigenous and French varieties. It also makes brandy. |
| The 2006 Quinta do Poço do Lobo, Bairrada DOC, is a blend of equal amounts of Arinto and Chardonnay. It spent three years on the yeast and has a nose of floral, grapefruit peel, pear, and green apple. All repeat with good mousse and finish medium-broad and medium-long with persistent grapefruit peel and a bitter note. Very dry and nicely put together. |
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| The 2008 Frei João, White, Bairrada DOC, $12, is 60% Arinto and 40% Chardonnay. It completed malolactic fermentation in stainless steel vats and has soft aromas of apple, pear, lemon, floral, and grapefruit peel. Round, mouth filling, tart flavors of the same plus mineral carry through the medium-broad, medium-long finish that adds a hint of spice. It has lots of acidity and will pair well with seafood or can serve as an aperitif. |
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| The 2007 Frei João Red, Bairrada DOC, $12, is a blend of 50% Baga, 30% Touriga Nacional, and 20% Tinta Roriz. It opens with earth, black cherry, and blackberry which continue as fresh, juicy flavors accented with light tannin before a medium-broad, truncated finish. |
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| The 2007 Porta dos Cavaleiros, Dão DOC, $12, is Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro, Aragonés, Jaen, and Tinta Roriz. Twenty percent was aged for a year in oak, the balance in stainless steel and concrete vats. Aromas of earth, smoky oak, currant, and leather introduce soft, fairly bright flavors of the same plus blueberry and allspice all laced with light, grainy tannin and sour acidity. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long. Overall, it is clean and fresh and will go nicely with barbeque and similar foods. Interesting. |
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| In contrast, the 2007 Porta dos Cavaleiros, Reserva, Dão DOC, $35, is 100% Touriga Nacional that was aged for eight months in French oak, 50% new. Aromas of menthol, black cherry, spice, leather, violets, and smoky oak repeat as flavors with the addition of pepper and fine tannin. The medium-broad, truncated, persistent finish has the pepper at the front. |
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| The 2005 Frei João, Reserva, Bairrada DOC, $35, is a blend of 50% Baga, 35% Camarate, and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged for one year in 75% new French oak, is has a soft bouquet of blackberry, cherry, vanilla oak, and currant before juicy, fresh flavors of the same laced with good acidity and very fine, smooth tannin. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long. This is a big, chewy wine which needs about three more years in the bottle to develop. Well put together, it will complement food. |
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| The 2007 Quinta do Poço Lobo, Rerserva, Bairrada DOC, $40, opens big and rich with baked blackberry, dark cherry, cinnamon, and smoky oak. Juicy, broad, fresh flavors of the same are accented with very fine tannin and nice acidity. The medium-broad, medium-long finish adds a quick shot of pepper at the middle front before it dies. |
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| The 1983 Porta dos Cavaleiros, Reserva, Dão DOC, $NA, shows how well wines made from Portuguese varieties can age. A blend of Alfrocheiro, Preto de Mortágua, Tinta Roriz, and Baga, it has a Bordeaux-like nose with a Portuguese palate. A very earthy, currant, fennel, leather, smoke, and meat bouquet introduces fresh, juicy flavors of the same with good acidity and very fine tannin. Everything carries through the long, medium-broad finish. There is plenty of life in this well integrated, structured, and balanced wine. Very Good to Excellent. |
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| The 1974 Porta dos Cavaleiros, Dão DOC, $NA, is Malvasia Fina, Encruzado, and Bical. Reminiscent of an old, dry style Vin Santo, it shows honey, pear, floral, and an oxidized note on the nose. Flavors of lemon, pear, green, apple, and floral are very fresh and the acidity is bright. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long. Excellent. |
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| QUINTA da MATA FIDALGA | Fidalga has been growing grapes since the early 1980s but originally sold the fruit to others. Beginning in 1993, it began using the fruit to produce wines for its own label QMF. |
| The 2006 Sparkling Rosé, Brut, Bairrada DOC, $12, is 75% Baga and 25% Touriga Nacional. The secondary fermentation was in the bottle and the wine spent at least fifteen months on the lees. It has nice mousse behind the bitter cherry and strawberry nose which carries all the way through the medium-broad, medium-long finish. |
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| The 2006 Sparkling White Brut, Bairrada DOC, $12, is a blend of Baga, Chardonnay, Arinto, Bical, and Maria Gomes. Twenty-five percent was barrel fermented and all was aged en tirage for twenty-four months. A bitter, grapefruit peel, and floral nose introduces flavors of grapefruit, lemon, pear, and apple with good acidity and mousse before a long, medium-broad finish. Well put together. Very Tasty. |
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| The 2007 Sparkling Reserve Personnel, Bairrada DOC, $40, is equal amounts of Touriga Nacional and Baga and was produced using carbonic maceration. It is very fizzy with somewhat bitter dark cherry, black raspberry, blackberry, and spice flavors that finish medium-broad and medium-long. Intense and simple. |
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| Fifty percent of the fruit for the 2007 Premium White, Bairrada DOC, $12, was barrel fermented in new French oak. A blend of 30% each of Maria Gomes, Chardonnay, and Bical and 10% Arinto, it has grapefruit, lemon, and honeysuckle aromas that repeat with the additions of green apple and pear flavors laced with good acidity. The finish is long, narrow at the front and broad at the back. Well structured, integrated, and balanced. Very Tasty. |
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The 2007 Premium Red, Bairrada DOC, $16, is 30% each of Touriga Nacional, Baga, and Tinta Roriz and 10% Syrah. Aged in new French oak for twelve to fourteen months, it has a rich, lush nose of blackberry, spice, black cherry, and dusty black pepper. All repeat but with more pepper as zippy flavors laced with fine tannin and good acidity. The broad, very long finish is quite peppery. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Very Good. |
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Luis Pato is one of Bairrada’s and Portugal’s foremost vintners. He is traditional in that he utilizes only indigenous varietals but, beyond that, experiments in whatever ways he feels will improve the wine. For example, he uses only French oak for those of his wines which are matured in oak because he believes that American oak is too powerful for Baga and the other Portuguese varieties. Pato’s wines are all well crafted, reflect his approach and are worth a special effort to find. www.luispato.com |
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The 2008 Bruto, Vinho Espumante, Casta Baga, Portugal, $20, was made from Baga and was first fermented in stainless steel and then a second fermentation in the bottle. It has no dosage. Riper than many Portuguese sparklers, it is a rosé with very nice sweet strawberry and raspberry flavors touched with a hint of bitterness. Flavors of the same fruit plus lime are laced with good acidity and a good mousse. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long. The wine is well balanced, structured, and integrated and evidences its Baga fruit. Very Good Pato’s 2009 Sparklers will be madewith only one fermentation and that in the bottle. This will be reminiscent of the way the wines were made in the 19th Century. |
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| The 2008 Vinha Formal, Vinho Branco, Portugal, $40, is a sparkling white made from 50% Touriga Nacional and 50% Bical. It is also the first Portuguese single vineyard wine. Soft, restrained aromas of apple, pear, grapefruit, and lemon repeat in the reverse order as flavors and finish medium-broad and medium-long. The wine is nicely fresh and has good acidity and mousse. Well put together. Good. When released, the 2009 offering of this wine is 70% Touriga Nacional and 30% Bical and will be fresher because of the smaller percentage of Bical. |
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| The 2008 Vinhas Velhas, VR Beiras, $18, is 50% Bical, 25% Cerceal, and 25% Sercialinho. Fermented in stainless steel vats and chestnut casks, it has a floral and lemon nose before big, round flavors of the same plus mineral and moderate acidity. The finish is medium-broad and medium-long. The wine has nice richness and weight and is well structured and balanced. It can pair with food or serve as an aperitif. Very Tasty. |
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| The 2008 Vinha Formal, Vinho Branca, VR Beiras, $45, is 100% Bical from chalky soils. Fermented and then aged for eight months in new French oak casks, it is a white wine with the structure of a red. A floral, apple, sweet lime, plus hints of mineral, toast, and sweet cream nose introduces juice lime, lemon, and green apple flavors that finish long and medium-broad. This is a big, crisp, firmly structured wine that needs a couple of years in the bottle to develop and open. Very Good. BEST WINE. |
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| The 2007 Vinhas Velhas, Vinho Tinto, VR Beiras, $17 is 100% Baga, and was matured in used French oak casks for three years. Aromas of black cherry, black berry, and some bitter floral are very attractive and lead to flavors of cherry, blackberry, and raspberry laced with very fine tannin and bright acidity. It finishes broad and medium-long. Well integrated, balanced, and structured, it is drinking well now but should mature and improve nicely for fifteen years. Very Tasty. Indeed, the 1990 vintage of this wine has become elegant and developed more depth and flavors. |
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| The 2003 Vinha Barossa, VR Beiras, is also 100% Baga but reflects the hot 2003 vintage in its very ripe, almost baked blackberry and black cherry aromas. Flavors of Montmorency cherry and tart raspberry are laced with tooth coating tannin and finish long and medium-broad. |
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Pato also makes three dessert wines which are sweet without being sugary or cloying. He makes them by freezing the juice to stop fermentation and then uses cryoextraction. The 2009 Abafado Molecular, Vinho Branco, VR Beiras, is a white blend. Aromas of honey, floral, sweet grapefruit, and apple repeat as sweet flavors with the additions of pineapple and apricot and with the sweetness well balanced with acidity. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long. Well balanced, structured, and integrated, it needs another five years in the bottle to develop. |
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The 2009 Abafado Molecular Rosé, VR Beiras, is 100% Baga. The grapes were picked at the same time as the Baga for the sparkling wine and the result is a nose of strawberry, cherry, and raspberry with nice sweetness before intense, explosive flavors reminiscent of strawberry gelato from Vivoli. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long and needs more time to develop. It is bright fuchsia in color and is sweet but not cloying. Well integrated, balanced, and structured. Unusual. Very Good. |
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The 2009 Abafado Molecular, Vinho Tinto, is also 100% Baga but picked later than that for the Rosé. A dark, cherry, blackberry, and currant nose continues as flavors with a typical Baga bitter note and accented with moderate tannin and nice acidity. The medium-broad, medium-long finish is quite persistent. Well put together and it will benefit from more time in the bottle. |
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| Baixo has 20 hectares of vineyards divided between three estates. The vines age from 20 to 80 years old and Baixo makes nine wines totaling 12,500 cases annually. www.quintadebaixo.pt. | |
The 2008 Brut Natural, Bairrada, $12, has a light citrus and green apple nose before clean, fresh, pear, apple, and lemon flavors supported with nice acidity and mousse finish medium-broad and medium-long. Straight forward and well put together. |
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The 2007 Brut Natural, Bairrada, $12, has soft aromas of apple, lemon and toast before crisp, tart, assertive lemon, grapefruit, and green apple flavors that finish medium-broad and medium-long. It contains 10% Baga, has good mousse and acidity and is well structured, balanced, and integrated. |
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The 2009 Blaudus, Blanco, Bairrada, opens with floral, grapefruit, and lemon before light bodied apple, citrus peel, and pear flavors accented with touches of astringency and a bitter note. It finishes long and narrow at the front and broad at the back. Bottled fined but not filtered, it is a white to pair with food. |
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The 2006 Colheita, Vinho Tinto, Bairrada, $10, is a blend of equal amounts of Baga and Touriga Nacional. Intense aromas of earth, black cherry, and violets introduce light bodied, zippy, juicy flavors of the same laced with grainy tannin. The finish is long and medium-broad. A well put together, everyday red. Tasty. BEST BUY. |
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BEIRA INTERIOR |
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Thirty associates founded the Fundão Wine Cooperative in 1949. It now has 1000 members and handles about four million kilograms of grapes each year. All the fruit comes from its associates and about 70% are red grapes. www.adegafundao.com |
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The 2009 Cova da Beira, DOC Beira Interior, is a blend of Arinto, Fonte Cal, and Síria with round and smooth, but not sweet, flavors of lemon and grapefruit that finish medium-broad and truncated. Served chilled on a hot afternoon, it will be refreshing. (There is also a Cova da Beira red wine made from Trincadeira (Tinta Amarella), Rufere, and Jaen.) There are also two wines labeled Alpedrinha. The white is the 2008 Alpedrinha, DOC Beira Interior, which is a blend of Arinto, Fonte Cal, and Síria. It was barrel fermented in “young” oak and some was aged briefly in oak. Light floral and grapefruit aromas introduce somewhat tart, light bodied flavors of the same touched with a bit of tannin before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. Simple. |
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| The 2007 Alpedrinha, Vinho Tinto, DOC Beira Interior, is Touriga Nacional, Aragones, and Trincadeira with round, soft, tart cranberry, strawberry, and cherry flavors before a medium-broad, somewhat short finish. Very simple. |
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| The 2007 Praça Velha Garrafeira, DOC Beira Interior, is Jean and Trincadeira and was aged for six months in French oak and an additional year in the bottle before release. A light nose of dark cherry and plum introduces light bodied flavors of the same that are not sweet, plus cranberry and gripy tannin. The finish is medium-broad and truncated. |
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| Quite different is the Fundanus Prestige which is the Coop’s top wine. The 2005 Fundanus Prestige, DOC Beira Interior, is a blend of Aragonés and Jean. A forward bouquet of cherry, black raspberry, currant, and plum plus some oak introduces sweet edged and fairly big bodied flavors of the same with an almost candied note and laced with fine tannin and good acidity. The finish is medium-broad and medium-long. Very Tasty. |
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| ADEGA da COLVILHÃ | This is a cooperative founded in 1954. It produces twelve still and five sparkling wines under several different labels plus two fortified wines, a brandy, and a brandy infused with zimbro (juniper) flavor. Notes on a few of these follow. www.adegacovilha.pt |
| The nv Cova Juliana, Espumante, V.E.Q.P.R.D, Branco Bruto, is a blend of Arinto and Séria with a light floral and mineral nose before big, juicy lemon and orange blossom flavors with good acidity and mousse. The finish is medium-broad and medium-long. Simple and refreshing. The nv Cova Juliana, Espumante, V.E.Q.P.R.D., Rosé Bruto, has very light aromas of strawberry and Montmorency cherry which continue as ripe, but not sweet, flavors touched with a hint of tannin. It has nice fizz but everything fades quickly. |
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| The 2008 Conde Juliãno, DOC Rosé, is a blend of Touriga Nacional, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Alfrocheiro. It opens with Montmorency cherry before flavors of cherry, raspberry, and cranberry just touched with sweetness, a hint of fizz, and moderate acidity. The finish is medium-broad and medium-long. Straight forward. |
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| The 2008 Piornos, Reserva, Branco, DOC Beira Interior, is a blend of Síria and Arinto with toast and floral aromas before smooth, soft, sweet lemon, sweet apple, and pear flavors that finish medium-broad and truncated. |
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| CASA ALMEIDA GARRETT | Sociedade Agricola da Beira produces its wines under the Almeida Garrett label named after the 19th Century Portuguese writer and artist. The winery uses both traditional Portuguese and French varieties and also produces cheese, raspberry jam, and orange compote. |
The 2008 Chardonnay, DOC Beira Interior, was fermented and aged sur lie with bâtonnage for six months in French oak. Apple, lemon cream, and sweet pear on the nose introduce round, tart, lemon, grapefruit, and green apple flavors that finish medium-broad and medium-long. A simple Chard’ to pair with food. |
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| The 2008 Reserva, DOC Beira Interior, is 100% chardonnay that was fermented and then aged for ten months sur lie with bâtonnage in mostly older French oak. Aromas of apple, lemon, pear, and spice repeat as broad and fairly soft flavors touched with a bit of astringency before a long, broad finish. Straight forward and well put together. Very Tasty. |
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| The 2008 Entre Serras, Vinho Tinto, is a blend of Trincadeira, Tinta Roriz, and Tinta Barroca aged briefly in French oak. Very restrained blackberry, black cherry, and white pepper introduce juicy, bright flavors of the same plus raspberry accented with a hint of sweetness. The medium-broad finish is long but dominated in a strip down the middle. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. |
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| The 2008 Touriga Nacional, Vinho Tinto, DOC Beira Interior, has forward aromas of blackberry and black cherry plus hints of sweet earth and oregano. All repeat as bright, juicy, light bodied flavors laced with tooth coating tannin before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. Well integrated and structured. Good. |
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| The 2008 Colheita Seleccionada, Vinho Tinto, DOC Beira Interior, is a blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, and Trincadeira. Aged for six months in French oak, it has smooth blackberry, smoky oak, and soft pepper on the nose. Smooth flavors of the same with a hint of sweetness, more smoke and the additions of black raspberry, sweet cranberry, a touch of sweet rhubarb, and chocolate are laced with juicy acidity and finish long and medium-broad. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. The 2006 release of this wine is ripe and juicy but not sweet and has more tannin. |
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| The 2007 Reserva, Vinho Tinto, DOC Beira Interior, is a blend of Touriga Nacional, Syrah, and Merlot that spent twelve months in French oak. A restrained but fairly deep bouquet of blackberry, black cherry, roasted meat, light spice, and smoky oak continues as round, soft, mouth filling flavors laced with soft acidity and tooth coating tannin before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. It will be popular. |
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| QUINTA dos CURRAIS | |
The 2008 Síria, Vinho Branco, DOC Beira Interior, was aged for six months in stainless steel and four months in the bottle before release. Aromas of lemon, earth, and bitter floral introduce juicy, tart, lemon, lime, lime peel, mango, and gooseberry flavors that finish medium-broad and truncated. A well put together white that will complement food. At the time this was written, the Quinta’s website was under construction: www.quintadoscurrais.com |
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| In contrast, the 2008 Colheita Seleccionada, Vinho Branco, DOC Beira Interior, is a blend of 50% Fonte Cal and 25% each of Arinto and Síria. It matured for four months and opens bright but restrained with floral and a hint of mineral. Big, almost lush, flavors of mineral, lemon, pear, green apple, and almost ripe pineapple finish medium-broad and medium-long with an added touch of spice. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Very Good. |
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| The 2008 Vinho Tinto, DOC Beira Interior, is a blend of 50% Aragonês, 25% Touriga Nacional, 15% Rufete, and 10% Castelão. Aged for nine months in French and American oak, it has bright, spicy, blackberry, currant, dark cherry, plum, and light smoky oak on the nose. All repeat as juicy flavors with the addition of sweet strawberry, nice acidity, and fine tannin before a long, medium-broad finish. Well structured, integrated, and balanced. Good. |
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| If you prefer your Vinho Tinto sweeter, try the 2003 Vinho Tinto, Reserva, DOC Beira Interior. A slightly different blend, it is 50% Touriga Nacional and 25% each of Aragonês and Castelão. Aged for eighteen months in French oak and an additional twelve in the bottle, it reflects the very hot 2003 vintage with a sweet accent from start to finish. An elegant bouquet with good intensity of black cherry, blackberry, currant, plum, and light oak repeats on the palate laced with good acidity and tooth coating tannin. Everything carries through the medium-long, medium-broad finish. |
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| VINHOS ANDRADE de ALMEIDA | This producer releases its three wines, white, rosé, and red, with a Versus label. It makes 12,000 bottles of each. www.vaawines.com |
| The 2007 Versus, Séria, DOC Beira Interior, is sold out at the winery but you may find some on your local purveyor’s shelf. Very light floral aromas introduce round, soft flavors of stone, chalk, sweet white grapefruit, and sweet lemon that finish medium-broad and medium-long. The first release of this wine, the 2005, is fading which means that the 2007 should be consumed soon. |
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| The 2007 Versus, Rosé, DOC Beira Interior, is a blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roríz, and Tinta Barroca. It saw no oak and has light cherry and strawberry aromas which repeat in the reverse order with the additions of cranberry, a hint of spice, and a touch of tannin before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. The wine has a hint of sweetness, is straight forward and easy to drink. Well put together. |
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| The 2006 Versus, Vinho Tinto, DOC Beira Interior, is Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roríz, and Tinta Barroca. It opens with dark, almost bitter, cherry, blackberry, and cranberry on the nose. All repeat as flavors accented with a sour note and shot through with a moderate amount of fine, tooth coating tannin before a long finish that is narrow at the front and broad at the back. |
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DÃO |
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| Penalva was founded in 1960 at Fortaleza do Dão and has about 840 members. Grapes are purchased on the basis of their sugar content, though the Coop does try to control vineyard practices. From the grapes its members supply, Penalva produces annually eight million liters (almost 890,000 cases) of wine, 75% of which is red, and 25% white. | |
| Milénio | |
| The nv Bruto, Vinho Espumante, Dão DOC, is Malvazia-Fina, Cerceal Branco, and Verdelho. Lemon, toast, and green apple introduce tart, bitter flavors of the same that finish medium-broad, and medium-long. It has nice fizz. |
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| Penalva | |
| The 2008 Rosé, Dão DOC, is a blend of Toruiga Nacional and Aragonês. Aromas of wild strawberry, cherry, and a leafy green note repeat as dry, somewhat tart flavors with just a touch of tannin. One dimensional. |
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| The 2008 Vinho Tinto, Dão, has dark cherry and earth on the nose before light bodied cherry juice with tannin on the palate. It finishes medium-broad and truncated. Very Simple. |
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| The 2008 Reserva Tinto, Dão DOC, is 50% Touriga Nacional with the balance varying percentages of Aragonês and Jaen. It spent six months in French and American oak and has intense dark cherry and currant aromas with notes of herb and smoky oak. Unexpectedly light bodied after the nose, it is not sweet and has an almost bitter note and shows mostly mineral, dark cherry, and herb with dry tannin and moderate acidity. It finishes medium-broad and truncated. Fresh and straight forward for everyday. |
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| The 2005 Jaen, Dão DOC, spent one year in French oak and has a bouquet of tobacco, smoke, green herb, currant, and cherry. Flavors of blueberry, boysenberry, and a grapey note are followed by everything from the nose laced with very fine tannin and good acidity. The finish is long and narrow at the front and broad at the back. Everything is nicely integrated and resolved and there is some layering of flavors. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Very Tasty. |
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| Picos do Couto | |
| The nv Bruto, Vinho Spumante, DOC Dão, is Alfrochiero and Touriga Nacional with an almost sharp nose of bread, lees, lemon, and apple which continue onto the palate as flavors with a creamy note and good acidity. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long. Straight forward and crisp with good fizz, it is well put together. |
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| Agricola Castro de Penalva | |
| The 2009 Serrado, Dão DOC, opens with soft, forward, attractive, lemon, apricot, and floral aromas which continue as flavors with increasing apricot and some astringency before a broad, medium-long finish. |
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| The 2009 Picos do Couto, Dão DOC, is Encruzado. A bright, restrained, aromatic nose of lemon, grass, herb, and a hint of oak introduces broad flavors of lemon, grass, apple, mineral, and well integrated oak that finish broad and medium-long. Layers of well balanced, structured, and integrated flavors. Good. (This is the first vintage of this wine. Seven barrels were made.) |
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| The 2008 Branco, Dão DOC, has soft aromas of apple, lemon, and lemon peel before round flavors of lemon, lemon peel, and green apple wrapped with mild acidity. It finishes long and narrow at the front and broad at the back. |
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| ADEGA COOPERATIVA SULGUEIROS | This cooperative produces straight forward wines to accompany food |
| The nv Vinho Tinto, VR, is a red blend with dark, bright, juicy cherry, blackberry, and currant aromas. Juicy flavors of the same add oak and notes of earth plus fine tannin and good acidity. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long. It has good mouth feel and presence and is well balanced, structured, and integrated. A great everyday red. Very Tasty. |
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| The 2005 Vinho Tinto, Reserva, Dão DOC, has an elegant bouquet of smoke, earth, and black cherry before lean, spicy flavors of the same with a garrigue-like character. The finish is medium-broad and medium-long. The overall impression is good fruit shot through with bright acidity. It will pair nicely with food. Tasty. |
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| The 2005 Morgado de Silgueiros, Dão DOC, is Touriga Nacional with a ripe, lush nose of smoke, earth, black cherry, herb, and notes of oak, bell pepper, and bret’. All repeat as juicy, bright flavors with the additions of pepper, good acidity, and grainy tannin before a long, broad finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated, it needs another two years in the bottle to mature. Good. |
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| Ftp has properties in both Douro, at Doval and Dão, at Picos do Cuoto and Quinta do Serrado. Ftp comes from the owner’s name: Fernando Tavares Pereira. | |
| QUINTA do SERRADO | Quinta do Serrado is located in Penalva do Castelo in the northern part of Dão region and strives to produce wines that reflect the typicity of the region. |
| The 2007 Serrada, Dão, DOC, has a light nose of cherry, raspberry, smoky oak, herb, and cinnamon. All repeat as flavors with the addition of light pepper, good acidity and grainy tannin before a medium-broad, truncated finish. Light bodied, straight forward, and easy to drink. It will improve with a bit more time in the bottle. |
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| The 2008 Touriga Nacional, Dão DOC, has forward aromas of earth, herb, blackberry, and currant that repeat as big bodied, juicy flavors laced with fine tannin and moderate acidity. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long. Straight forward, well balanced, structured, and integrated. Tasty. |
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| PICOS do COUTO | Picos do Couto is a property in the southern part of the region and makes wines in a more “modern” Dão style. Some might call them “international” in style but they reflect the current trend toward softer, more easily approachable wines. |
| The 2007 Reserva, Dão DOC, $(€6.5), is 70% Touriga Nacional, 20% Tinto Roriz, and 10% Alfrocheiro. It opens soft and lush with cherry, raspberry, red currant, and rhubarb before flavors of the same with good acidity and light, fine tannin before a long, medium-broad finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated and it is drinking nicely now. Tasty. |
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| QUINTA da NESPEREIRA | |
| The 2008 Vineaticu, Dão DOC, is a blend of equal amounts of Encruzado and Verdelho. Fifty percent of the wine was made in stainless steel and fifty percent was barrel fermented and sur lie aged for six months in French oak. An oaky nose leads to flavors of mineral, lemon, lime, and oak that finish medium-broad and medium-long. |
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| The 2008 Sarmentu, Dão DOC, approx. $25, saw no oak and opens with cherry, blackberry, earth, herb, and violet before juicy, medium bodied flavors of the same plus blueberry pie filling laced with good acidity and a moderate amount of fine, tooth coating tannin. Everything carries though the medium-broad, medium-long finish. Lively, well balanced, structured, and integrated. Very Good and an Excellent Value. BEST WINE. |
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| The 2007 Vineacticu Tinto, Dão DOC, opens with dark cherry, cranberry, a hint of blueberry, smoke, and blackberry. It has big, round, smooth flavors of the same with increasing pepper plus good acidity and a significant amount of fine, grainy tannin. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long with very persistent pepper. It will benefit from another two to three years in the bottle. Well integrated, balanced, and structured. Very Tasty. |
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| A barrel sample of the 2008 Vineacticu Tinto, spent six months in older French oak and shows blackberry, currant, leather, pepper, and herb on the nose before fresh, clean peppery flavors of the same plus cherry laced with grainy tannin and bright acidity before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. Well put together. Very Tasty. |
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| QUINTA de CABRIZ | Cabriz makes almost 42,000 cases annually from native varietals. |
| The nv Bruto, Dão DOC, is a blend of Malvasia Fina and Bical. A method champenoise sparkler, it has a lees, autolytic, and apple nose before chalky, apple, lemon peel, and green gage plum flavors that finish broad and medium-long. Simple with nice fizz. |
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| The 2009 Blanco, Dão, is a blend of Malvasia Fina, Encruzado, and Bical with aromas of floral, apple, pear, and lemon that repeat as fresh flavors before a medium-broad, truncated finish which shows a touch of tannin. Fruity, aromatic, straight forward, pleasant, and easy to drink. |
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| The 2009 Encruzado, Dão, was matured in oak and opens with oak over fruit before bright flavors of lemon, mineral, lime, and oak. The medium-broad, medium-long finish has lingering spicy oak. Crisp, bright, and well put together. |
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| The 2008 Paço dos Cunhas de Santar, Vinha do Contador Blanco, Dão, is a blend of Encruzado, Malvasia Fina, and Bical that was aged sur lie with bâtonnage. A funky nose with lees, lactic, floral, and overripe brie introduces sweet-tart flavors of lemon, green apple, mineral, lime, and light tannin that finish medium-broad and medium-long with persistent spice at the front center. Unusual. | |
| The 2007 Tinto, Dão, $12, is Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, and Alfrocheiro. Very, very light aromas of black cherry and berry lead to mouth filling flavors of smoke, spice, cherry, cranberry, and rhubarb accented with light tannin. The medium-broad, medium-long finish adds persistent pepper. A well put together, easy to drink, everyday red. BEST BUY. |
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| The 2005 Conde de Santar Tinto, Dão, is Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz with a bouquet of smoke, leather, tobacco, earth, cedar, and a vegetal note. Juicy, bright flavors of the same are laced with fine, smooth, tooth coating tannin and good acidity and finish medium-broad and medium-long. |
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| The 2007 Four C Tinto, 166 cases, is a blend of Touriga Nacional, Baga, Tinta Roriz, and Tinta Cão. A vegetal, earth, leather, blackberry, currant, and blueberry bouquet precedes bright, juicy, spicy, cherry, raspberry, and boysenberry flavors with moderate tannin and nice acidity. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long. Supple, elegant, well-balanced, structured, and integrated. Very Good. |
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| The 2005 Encontro Baga, Bairrada, shows earth, leather, barnyard, blackberry, black cherry, and a hint of cinnamon on the nose. Rich and supple but not big flavors of the same add pepper, great acidity, and light tannin before a medium-broad, medium-long finish where the cinnamon becomes Ceylon cinnamon. |
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| The 2000 Superior, Dão DOC, $8, is Alfrocheiro, Toruiga Nacional, and Tinta Roriz with plum, cherry, cedar, and violets on the nose. The same fruit repeats with the addition of light, brown spice, good acidity and a touch of tannin before the long, medium-broad finish. Still youthful and medium-bodied, it has great structure and balance. Very Good. |
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| The 2006 Reserva, Dão DOC, shows black cherry, sweet earth, and tar before flavors of cherry, black raspberry, and blackberry with a sweet accent and dry tannin. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Tasty. |
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| CASA SANTAR | |
| The 2004 Conde de Santar, Dão DOC, is a blend of Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro Preto, and Tinto Cão aged for twelve months in new French oak. It opens with leather, cherry, violets, cocoa powder, and a hint of licorice. Flavors of cherry, red plum, raspberry, and rhubarb have initial sweetness. The good, bright acidity kicks in along with fine, slightly dry tannin. It finishes medium-broad and medium-long. Well put together. |
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| The 2006 Reserva, Dão DOC, spent nine months in new French oak and has a bouquet of black cherry, black raspberry, currant, prune, and smoky oak. All repeat as quite ripe but not sweet flavors laced with very fine tannin and good acidity before a medium-broad, medium-long finish. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Good. |
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DUORO |
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| QUINTA das TECEDEIRAS | |
| The 2007 Port is still very tight and needs another five to ten years to develop and open. Cherry, plum, chocolate, apricot, and plenty of pepper are laced with dry, dusty tannin and good acidity and finish medium-broad and medium-long. It is not showing any maderized character now but will probably when it opens. Well put together. |
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| The 2006 Vale do Bomfin, Duoro DOC, $14, has a mature bouquet of floral, cherry, blackberry, and currant. All repeat as flavors with the addition of sweet rhubarb and laced with good acidity and lots of fine tannin. It finishes long and medium-broad. Well balanced, structured, and integrated. Tasty. |
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| W&J GRAHAM’S | |
The nv Six Grapes Reserve Port, Duoro, $22 (also $13/375 ml., $7/187 ml.), is a nice, straight forward, very dark colored ruby Port with maderized and sweet aromas of raisin, chocolate, orange marmalade, nuts, and sweet leather. All repeat as nicely bright, moderately sweet, almost juicy flavors accented with fine tannin and with the sweetness well balanced with the acidity. It finishes long and medium-broad. Well integrated and structured. Good. |
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The Otima 10, Duoro, $26/500 ml, is a 10 Year Old Tawny Port with a light nose of prune, caramel, and orange before round, nice bodied, and nicely sweet flavors of baked cherry, plum, chocolate, and sweet Virginia tobacco. The finish adds pepper. Well balanced, integrated, and structured. Very Tasty. |
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